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A Search for questions in the category "RR Lighting" found the following results. Questions are sorted beginning with the most recent. The next most recent 20 questions and answers are shown below beginning with the 131st.

 Q3792 Mismatched PRR/B&O Globe/Lantern Set  I recently received an adlake lantern with B&O RR on the top rim. I'm not concerned about the lantern itself as being authentic but the globe. The globe is red with Pennsylvania Lines embossed on the glass. I have no idea if the globe is the original but it is a solid red and not painted or clear and red glass pressed together. My question is: did B&O RR sell to Pennsylvania lines or vice versa? Any info is appreciated and thank you so much. Posted Saturday, October 3, 2020 by Chuck   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. In short..no. What you've got is known in the collecting sphere as "Pieced together"....two distinct components brought together to work but not part of a created item which would be "hobbled together" from a variety of parts. There is no question of merger mania that far back, and both roads moved into separate groupings over time (ie Conrail versus Chessie/CSX) well after lanterns went electric. However, big roads and their subsidiaries often crossed territories...so, it would be easy for a person buying in the secondary markets (junking) to find two pieces that can work together. Also, "boomers" are employees who move on to the new opportunities with the shifting economy, often carrying items with them and presenting more opportunity for mix-and-match where they go. You can authenticate the globe here, but they are still of distinct origins. Posted Saturday, October 3, 2020 by ShastaRoute

 Q3786 Penn Central Lamp or Torch?  Could you please tell Me what this is? It has a Penn Central stamp on the top and is marked Johnson Urbana. The spout is about 28 in. long. I thought that maybe this had something to do with inspecting journals, but this is really a guess. Thank you.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, September 17, 2020 by RG   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. In the pic in the Link above, the man third from the left is actually using one.  Posted Thursday, September 17, 2020 by RJMc

A. This is more like a weed sprayer, or almost a flamethrower. In the winter it was filled with a flammable liquid which was then dispensed onto places like switch points and ignited, to melt out ice and snow so that the points could continue to be moved as needed to route trains. See Link where the man cetered in the pic is carrying one of these. The PRR also deployed thousands of rectangular metal burner cans, like smudge pots, under the rails at switch points in interlockings to keep the railroad open during snowstorms. They were manually lit or extinguished by track workers. This practice continued up thru PC, but has long since been replaced with propane or electric heaters and blowers to keep the points open, since there are no longer hundreds or thousands of employees to tend all this directly, and petroleum products are way too expensive to squirt on the ground and burn in the open.  Link 1  Posted Thursday, September 17, 2020 by RJMc

A. Glad to hear from somebody who has used one of these, I never have. It looks like the rod going up the handle is to operate the valve. But was there some kind of 'pilot light' function, so you didn't have to repeatedly keep lighting the liquid that came out? How long would a tankful last before having to go back for more? Posted Friday, September 18, 2020 by RJMc

A. Older style can than most of what I used , but I used them in the winter through the 80`s to thaw and clean out switches. Heaters were few and far between even on the main lines, except at major interlockings , and there were very few in the yards. I have heard of , but never seen , these used years ago to thaw out a frozen old style journal box. They were also used around lever operated towers.  Posted Friday, September 18, 2020 by hv coll

A. From what I can remember , this style weighed about 3 times what a newer style weighed when empty. Both styles had a thumb style valve. They did not "throw " flame buy kept an asbestos torch lit on the end to unthaw areas , let it be a switch , or the rods of a mechanical plant. They were lit by match , cigarette lighter or fuzee , whatever you had near. Very concentrated heating to one area at a time. During the 77/78 blizzard , I sometimes used 5 or 6 on one side of one switch , just to get enough heat to clean each side. Posted Monday, September 21, 2020 by h v coll

A. The Link is to the Wikipedia article on 'Driptorches' used to set backfires in forest fire fighting. Looks to be much the same thing as the RR's used.  Link 1  Posted Tuesday, November 17, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3785 Union Pacific Cast Globes  I have three different Union Pacific cast globes. (1)Overland shield; (2)Union Pacific in a straight line enclosed in rectangle; (3)Union over Pacific in square. What year was each one made? They are 5 3/8 inch globes and are not extended-base. Thanks,  Posted Saturday, September 12, 2020 by Troy   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Since no one has responded , and I have never seen a list of dates when certain globes were made, try " Union Pacific logos " on the internet. This will not give you certain dates , but it may give you an era when things changed . Posted Saturday, September 26, 2020 by h v coll

A. There are several reasons this question is extremely difficult to try to answer. I am guessing you would like to use the globe patterns to try to date lanterns. The suggestion to look at when different logos were used is a good one. But the markings on globes and lanterns were not for advertising to the public; they were to mark the RR's property to keep it from 'wandering off' to every barn and farm house in the region, where kerosene lanterns were also in common use. Looking at the info in the Archives and in other catalogs, lanterns cost as little as one or two dollars each and were bought in cases holding a dozen or more lanterns. So when kerosene lanterns and globes were in daily use on the railroads, they were "consumable" items, not "collectibles." I think globes got replaced sort of like flashlight batteries do today. Lanterns often got destroyed in use and quickly replaced, including globes getting broken and thrown away, replaced by new ones, often likely of a different pattern. And there were many different locations and departments of a big RR like UP that would order lanterns and replacement globes. There was little need for them to standardize the markings, and the manufacturers would put on any markings the customer(s) ordered. And a last layer of complexity: the glass suppliers who produced the globes were mostly separate from the lantern manufacturers and it wsa the glass suppliers who had the dies and molds for the globes. It is entirely possible that two different glass suppliers could be sending the UPRR globes, with or without lanterns, with different markings all at the same time. So the best hope for even a general answer to your question will be from someone who has a large collection of UPRR lanterns and has information about when each lantern and globe was in use. The UPRR Museum might be able to help (see link).  Link 1  Posted Tuesday, September 29, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3783 Handlan 150 Switch Lamp  I just recently purchased what I believe to be a Handlan 150 Switch lamp, which I plan to restore. The burner/fuel pot assembly is missing, and I was wondering if anyone could give me the dimensions and possibly a photograph of the burner/tank so that I could pursue a replacement? I am also curious if it uses a chimney as do the Adlakes? I can find almost no information on the lamp (age, etc - believe made between 1920-1940). It looks like it would take a rectangular tank roughly 4 in. W x 6 in. L x 3 in. H. Thanks.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, September 6, 2020 by Steve   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. The Archives here on the RRiana website have a complete 1956 Handlan catalog, including the No. 150 Switch Lamp. Link 1 is to the page illustrating the various types of lamps available in 1956, and Link 2 has an exploded view of all the various replacement parts which rr's used to refurbish the lamps. It shows the rectangular font which was common in switchlamps and markers. It shows a burner and chimney, but as discussed in another recent Q, that may have been a 'long burning' option not used in all the lamps. There are many other earlier Q's here on the site; just put Handlan Switch Lamp in the 'by word or phrase' query box. Link 1  Link 2  Posted Sunday, September 6, 2020 by RJMc

A. Lantern Update 6 Layers of paint later, the lantern is down to bare metal. It was a New Haven Rail Road Lantern. Two of the reflectors were in white baked enamel (blue enamel back), and the other two were painted yellow. Discussion with Woody Kirkman of Kirkman lanterns informed me that I can use an Adlake No. 1221 & No. 1307 Marker Lamp Fount (#28), which he has both fuel fount and burner in stock. I will update fully restored. Thanks Steve Posted Wednesday, September 23, 2020 by Steve

 Q3781 1880-1890 Dressel Lamp  I have this triangle Dressel lamp, I would like some information on it as I am looking for a catalog pic of it or someone with one. I have been collecting railroad for a very long time. I have never seen one of these as no one else either I have been talking to online. I'm needing to see what the reflector and font looks like as I need to find them. I would like to know any info on this lamp. Thanks.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Saturday, August 29, 2020 by JH   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. There is an excellent (huge -- over 1100 pages) well-illustrated 1902 catalog of RR-related stuff available online, having been scanned as part of the Google project to scan historical documents wherever they could find them. The company was Manning, Maxwell and Moore, a distributor supplying all kinds of equipment to the RR industry. The Link is to the entire catalog which is over 300 MB (!!) as a .pdf. I have pulled out and will send along part of page 1000 which shows lamps, including two 'Triangular Station Lamps' one of which is very similar to yours. Unfortunately the catalog does not list the original manufacturers of the small items being sold such as lamps and other hardware. The illustrations are clear enough to show that the burner and reflector in your lamp are likely how it was delivered.  Link 1  Posted Saturday, August 29, 2020 by RJMc

A. A copy of the 1894 Manning, Maxwell catalog (also 1118 pgs long) is available from the Internet Archive, a different source which is much more usable (see Link) to be connected directly to the lamp pages. The information seems to be the same for the 1894 and 1902 versions of the catalog.  Link 1  Posted Saturday, August 29, 2020 by RJMc

A. Here is the piece I clipped out of the 1902 Manning, Maxwell & Moore catalog (see above). Link 1  Posted Sunday, August 30, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3780 Lamp Oil Question  I have a 1930 Adams & Westlake S.P. railroad lantern and would like to light use it in the backyard during family gatherings. The oil reservoir says 'use long time burning oil only No 300'. My question is: can I use lamp oil in the lantern? Thank you for your time and assistance.  Posted Saturday, August 22, 2020 by Connie   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Yes you can use lamp oil or common kerosene. Not all gas stations/mini marts have a kero pump so you might have to search a little. The instruction to use a long time burning oil only, dates to the days when gasoline was first showing up as a fuel and people were not aware of the highly volatile danger of lighting it with an open flame. So, a long time burning oil at that time could be kerosene or modestly refined animal fat. I tried diesel fuel in a lamp once but the oily nature of that fuel clogged the wick and it crusted up quickly and went out. There was no danger from using it though. Recently, in an old barn lantern,I tried used cooking oil from a deli which I got for free. Same problem with the wick crusting up and going out in a hour or less. An internet discussion suggested soaking the wick in a heavily concentrated salt solution, as the salt wouldn't burn and thus keep the end of the wick in tact. That didn't work either. I think it would work if I could find a synthetic material that would still wick up the fuel but not burn. Or, I could just spend $4 A gallon for kerosene.  Posted Sunday, August 23, 2020 by TE

A. Using the "By Question No." search box: prior Q's 1390, 1350, and others that are listed in their answers address the questions about long burning oil and the general considerations about what to burn in an Adlake No.300 lantern (300 is the model no. of the lantern). Searching in the 'By Word or Phrase' box will turn up many more Q's and A's on this topic. Posted Tuesday, August 25, 2020 by RJMc

A. Been decades since I bought kerosene in cans from hardware stores. This got me to check Fred Meyer's (Kroger owned) where they have plastic containers of "1K" heater fuel kerosene which is supposedly good for lanterns (by the labeling). It indicates it is better than "2K" kero. Could not find any disclaimer about "long burning" on it. Comes in three different quantities. Anyone have more info on such products? Posted Monday, August 31, 2020 by ShastaRoute

A. Most of the kerosene sold today at hardware stores and fuel pumps at mini marts is pretty much k-1. It is a purer fuel and has far less sulfur content than K2 and thus is why it's used in portable heater and such. I don't even know if you could find K-2, unless someone out there can tell me where and how. K-2 would definitely burn well enough in a lamp or lantern but would have a stronger acidic odor.  Posted Monday, August 31, 2020 by TE

 Q3778 Lantern/Lamp Info?  I've attached a picture of a lantern. I'm unable to match it to any images on the Internet and was hoping you could provide me with any information about its age, origin, metal composite or railway? history usage…basically any information at all would be wonderful!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, August 17, 2020 by Todd   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A.  It is hard to tell what size this is from the picture. I think that it is a bicycle lamp and not railroad at all. If it is larger than it looks it might be a carriage lamp. Is there a mounting bracket on the side of the lamp that is not shown in the photos? Here is a link to The Lampworks site which has a short history of bicycle lamps.  Link 1  Posted Sunday, September 6, 2020 by KM

 Q3776 Please Identfy  Can someone please help me identify this particular lantern? It is a Tubular lantern. How rare is it? Thanks very much.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, August 13, 2020 by Igor   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Steam Gauge and Lantern Company. According to information found in Hobson's book "Lanterns That Lit Our World", the Tubular Square Lamps were bridge signal lamps. Hobson shows the No. 2 and No. 3, but not the No.1 lamp. Designed to be attached to a pole for visibility on the bridge, and also to bridge abutments. Various colors of glass such as red or green went on the sides and front to provide the wanted signal. Hobson lists these as "Rare".  Posted Friday, August 14, 2020 by JEM

 Q3774 Lamp Font Question  I have an early 'round top' A&W switch lamp. The font and burner are present, but there is no chimney glass, and it doesn’t seem like the burner is made to accept one. Would the small prongs that hold the chimney have been a separate apparatus that fits on the burner? Or did some of the early lamps operate without the internal glass chimney?   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, August 6, 2020 by Jake   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. There are a lot of useful scans of historical lamp mfrs. catalogs in the Archives here on the RRiana site (see Link.) And going thru the reference material on burners and fonts in Barrett's Illustrated Encyc. of RR Lighting Vol. 2 on RR Signal Lamps, it appears the glass chimneys were part of a 'Long Burning' option provided by all the major manufacturers on many types of lamps including markers and class lights, as well as switch and semaphore lamps. A 1907 Armspear catalog had a choice of 6 or 8 burner types of which only one is the long-burning variety and the others do not use chimneys. The long-burning feature was a factory option that no doubt cost the RR more money to purchase. So while most lamps bought after 1920 or so came that way, no doubt some RR's chose the plain version for many years thereafter, and there is one ad shown in Barrett where the mfr. is touting a 'non-chimney' burner no doubt to highlight the cost saving. There are no adapters shown to convert a lamp to 'long burning' from regualr. Apparently that would have required changing out the whole burner assembly. Dreimiller's book Signal Lights confirms that chimneys were added only to the Long Burning lamps, to increase the light output. Link 1  Posted Friday, August 7, 2020 by RJMc

A. RJMc, thank you for the detailed response! It's great to know that burner could be period correct and the link you provided helped me positively ID the lamp. It seems identical to the A&W No. 168 Steel Marker / Tail Lamp (assuming that had no hinged top). Living and finding it in Washington, it's fun to think it possibly served time on the Pacific Electric Railway. I found it with a red lens and two Lunar Whites; couldn't find any reference to that particular combo, but it’'ll look cool cleaned up and hanging in the shop nonetheless. Thanks again! Posted Sunday, August 9, 2020 by Jake

A. I'm going to assume you identified it correctly as PERy, so for a funky fact you should know that several people noted the old PE lantern that turned up in the film Emperor of the North Pole. Since this was filmed on the then operating Oregon, Pacific & Eastern Ry. out of Cottage Grove, one might say that PE equipment got around beyond SoCal. Just as Mojo Nixon and Skid Roper declared "Elvis is everywhere", apparently so too was the Pacific Electric. Lucky you! Posted Tuesday, August 25, 2020 by ShastaRoute

 Q3772 Dietz and Dressel 'Copper Clad' Lanterns  I have these lanterns and they are copper finished. The finish shows normal wear. All metal surfaces are copper including the inside and fount but not the burners. Both have Dressel founts. I have found information on lamps that were larter copper finished but not lanterns. I was wondering if anyone knows of any reason this would have been done? Thanks,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, August 6, 2020 by Doug   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Copper and its alloys are used in tools to reduce the risk of sparks being struck when impacts occur (see Link 1). It is possible the lanterns were copper-coated for use in hazardous locations (ammunition factories, or chemical plants where explosive vapors might be present, for example) The New York Central System served Nitro, WVA, and many chemical plants in that vicinity, where the special protection might have been warranted. NOTE that for this purpose beryllium metal was sometimes alloyed with the copper, which helped reduce electrical sparking as well as mechanical sparking. Beryllium is poisonous if ingested, which might occur if any machining was done on the parts which created dust which could be inhaled -- such as any kind of abrasive polishing. Link 2 which was produced by the successor to the Brush Beryllium Co. indicates that merely handling a copper-beyllium alloy should not be of major concern. I do not know of any easy test to check for the presence of beryllium in items such as your lanterns.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Thursday, August 6, 2020 by RJMc

A. Referring to the chemical plants and explosive vapors: The lanterns would not be lit there, correct? The coating would just be use to keep them from sparking with metal to metal contact, correct?  Posted Saturday, November 21, 2020 by Doug

 Q3767 Date of Etched Lantern Globes?  I just picked up a Deitz Vesta [with an etched RR globe]. I want to know when they started etching glass globes?  Posted Sunday, July 26, 2020 by Sean   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Glass can be etched by fairly straightforward mechanical or chemical means. The Web (see link 1) refers to chemical means being commonly available since the mid-1800's. Mechanical means with abrasives -- as basic as a metal file, a grinding wheel, or now done with sandblasting -- have been around as long as glass has been in use. So I suspect that globes have been etched as long as globes have been in use. As explained in more detail in Link 2, in the Archives here on this site, the oldest very fancy ones used the etching process to ID the globe and lantern to their individual user, often for ceremonial or award purposes. The relative ease of etching using a readily-available air compressor, sandblasting kit, and masking tape as the stencil means that almost anyone can etch lettering into a globe, causing great difficulty in determining whether etched pieces are originals.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Monday, July 27, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3763 Globe/Frame Question  I have a question. I have an old globe M.E.G - Mac Beth Evans 21 embossed and with a RR insignia globe. 5 1/2 tall; top opening - 2 1/4 in.; bottom opening 3 in. I also have a Vulcan 39 frame w/ same RR insignia. The globe seems to fit fine in the frame, but is this correct? Appreciate any insight.  Posted Monday, July 20, 2020 by CL   Post a Reply  Email a reply

 Q3760 Age of Handlan Lantern?  I was trying to find the year of this Handlan PRR fresnel globe lantern. If you can help it would be greatly appreciated.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, July 6, 2020 by Sean   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. The Handlan 2000 RR Lantern received patent number 1959128 in 1934 and appears to have been invented for railroad, not traffic, use.) Later the 2000 was constructed as a traffic/utility lantern using the same globe you have but a different body style. Google "Handlan 2000" for more information and pictures. Posted Tuesday, July 7, 2020 by LC

A. Just a quick reminder that the date the patent was granted is not the date of manufacture of an individual item. Patent dates do help by giving the earliest possible date the item could have been made, but without any further documentation, this lantern could have been made between 1934 and whenever Handlan stopped making this particular model. It is a nice lantern, do enjoy it !  Posted Wednesday, July 8, 2020 by JMS

 Q3759 What Do I Have?  Dad has a note on this that is a railroad lantern insert but I can't find anything like it online. Can you help me with identification? Thank you so much for your time & help.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, July 6, 2020 by LB   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Thanks so much for giving me possibilities! Lynn B Posted Tuesday, July 7, 2020 by LB

A. This very unusual item is too large to be used in any kind of railroad hand lantern. Next possibilities are headlights, but the curved plate behind the double wicks does not seem to be (or ever have been) reflectorized; I suspect it was to focus the heat from the flames rather than the light. The link shows a portable kerosene heater with a similar but larger concentrator assembly behind the heat source (a mantle in that case rather than wicks) but what looks like a similar idea. Other possibilities as a light source might be marine beacons, theater lighting, or maybe even a magic lantern projector, but none of those showed up with any burner assemblies looking even close to your item and all of them would have needed a mirrored surface on the concentrator.  Link 1  Posted Tuesday, July 7, 2020 by RJMc

A. Something to consider is this unit may not be of US or North American manufacture, since kerosene lights and heaters were/are used worldwide. I am puzzled by the square slots on either side of the oblong wick tubes, and the round and rectangular holes in the BOTTOM of what appears to be a kerosene tank. Do the holes in the bottom connect up to the slots in the top? If so, that might have provided forced air to the flame to increase the heat and/or light. But that is just speculation; an arrangement like that would be kind of unusual for a unit using a small tank of fuel. And the wick adjuster knobs seemt be arranged to set very precisely, with locking nuts on their shafts -- also an unusual feature. THe hole in the back of the concentrator seems to provide a 'peephole' thru the back plate. That would be so the wicks could be adjusted without pullng the unit out of whatever larger device it was mounted in. And there does not appear to be provision for any kind of chimney or globe to enclose the flame.  Posted Tuesday, July 7, 2020 by RJMc

A. @ RJMc, the Link1 you included in your first answer paragraph does not work ... not sure why.  Posted Wednesday, July 8, 2020 by JMS

A. Apparently there are restrictions on using the image. It worked as a link when I first found it. The following two links are to different kerosene heaters that also have a reflector; maybe they will work better. Otherwise just search on "reflector kerosene heater" to see other examples -- but note that none of them still look quite like the item in question.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Wednesday, July 8, 2020 by RJMc

A. I contacted Miles Stair at his WickShoppe website (see Link) hoping that he might recognize this mystery unit. We compared notes about the strange features, but he also was able to identify it, despite having voluminous info on all kinds of wicks and devices that use them. He does have all kinds of wicks available suitable for restoring all kinds of kerosene lamps, lanterns, and heaters to operation.  Link 1  Posted Thursday, July 9, 2020 by RJMc

A. I mis-spoke above: Miles was also NOT able to identify it. RJMc Posted Friday, July 10, 2020 by RJMc

A. Thanks for everyone's help. It seems that this item has stirred up some interest & I appreciate all of the responses. Still don't know what it is, but going with some kind if heater insert for now. Posted Saturday, July 11, 2020 by LB

A. Does this have a patent date on it? Randy Posted Monday, July 13, 2020 by rj

A. There aren't any marks on it that I can find. Sorry Posted Tuesday, July 14, 2020 by LB

A. See newer Q 3860 for the full answer to this 'What is it?' It is the burner assembly for a British ship's masthead navigation light, circa WWII. Posted Saturday, August 14, 2021 by RJMc

 Q3757 First Generation Dietz Vesta  This lantern is seen how often? Patent date 12-15-96. Hi-Top, Bellbottom, sliding brass door to light wick. Dietz Driving gear for wick rising. Takes 6 inch globe. Stamped on top of dome is R.R. LANTERN Dietz Vesta. Google 'VESTA VALHALLA' Carl Ellerman. I would think this model is seldom seen, being 124 years old. Thank you for more information.  Posted Friday, June 19, 2020 by Bruce   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. As stated by Dietz: This model was the first RR Lantern produced by Dietz. It may never be seen by collectors. Not even once. Posted Wednesday, July 1, 2020 by dinnertrain46

A. I’m not sure what the comment “It may never be seen by collectors. Not even once” means, but there are many known examples of the earliest Dietz Vesta bellbottom RR lantern in collections. It takes a no. 39 globe, same as other no. 39 models of the era. Posted Monday, July 6, 2020 by A Swoyer

A. This model is not a"39". Yes, a 39 is found all the day long. Also, 39's do not have a sliding brass door to lite the wick. This one does. Also,this model has the gear drive to raise the wick. Dietz is right, people will not see this model, that is 124 years old. Collectors all have the "39", This model is pre model 39. When did anyone ever see this model ? Posted Tuesday, July 7, 2020 by Dinnertrain46

A. The earliest Dietz Vesta bellbottom takes a no. 39 globe, 5-3/8” tall, same as most other tall globe RR models of the era. My example has the sliding brass door just above the left tube entry into the bottom cylinder, as well as the gear-driven wick raiser. See photo link. Mine appears to be identical to Carl Ellerman’s as photographed and described in his work “Vesta Valhalla.” I would characterize this large, first Dietz Vesta RR model as scarce, but not rare. Several examples are known to exist in collections. I’ve never seen one of these factory-embossed with RR initials. All known examples are unmarked. Link 1  Link 2  Posted Wednesday, July 8, 2020 by A Swoyer

 Q3755 Globe Removal Problem  I recently found this old lantern marked Armspear MFG CO., New York '1925' and have been cleaning it up. I've spent quite a bit of time trying to get the globe out but it is not cooperating. I was wondering how I can get the globe out, if I can at all.  Posted Saturday, June 13, 2020 by Izzy   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. The Link below is to that same Armspear catalog but shows you several pages all about the 1925 model lantern. It also explains why you will probably find 'wadding' or 'packing' material which soaked up the kerosene inside the font (when you are hopefully able to extract the globe, and then the font.) Link 1  Posted Saturday, June 13, 2020 by RJMc

A. The '1925' is the lantern model no. The Link below is to the Archives here on the RRiana site to a 1933 Armspear catalog that shows the 1925 model lantern in great detail, with some exploded views which will let you be sure that it is SUPPOSED to come apart. A major question needs to be "Is the globe marked in any way?" If not, globes are easily replaced and you may want to be more vigorous about trying to get it out. If the globe has cast lettering of RR initials or etched lettering you should be much more gentle with it. That said, the standard tricks for this are soaking in penetrant oil, such as WD40 or PB Blaster, and/or fairly gentle applications of heat and cold so as to avoid breaking the globe. You might try 'cold soaking' the whole lantern in the refrigerator, then immersing only the metal bottom part in warm water to see if that helps break things loose.  Link 1  Posted Saturday, June 13, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3749 Fake Lamps?  I just bought a matching set of these and was trying to find some information if they are real or if any remakes were made of them? Also about what years the originals were made? The man we bought them from is an antiques collector and got them at an estate auction. He said he took them out of the box and put them together. Thank you.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, May 10, 2020 by PA   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. KM, the Link you posted is not working. Please check the address? thanks!  Posted Monday, May 11, 2020 by JMS

A. These appear to me to be original caboose lamps that were made by Adams and Westlake. They may have been restored and painted by someone at some point. One way that you can date lamps is by the burners and the thumb wheel that adjusts the wick. Here is a link to The Lampworks, which is Dan Edminster's business that sells antique lamp parts. This is a history of Plume and Atwood Manufacturing Company, aka P&A.  Link 1  Posted Monday, May 11, 2020 by KM

A. Sorry about the bad link. If you search Dan Edminster The Lampworks it will get you to his website. There is a lot of information there and if you check the site map you will find a very detailed history of the Plume and Atwood Company. Part pf P&A was taken over by the Risden Company in the late 1950's and the burner knob that is involved here says P&A Risden Co. so the burner is likely made after that date. At some point Adams and Westlake may have sold caboose lamps to the general public and it is possible that these lamps may have never seen railroad service particularly because the previous owner/antique collector said "he took them out of the box and assembled them." But they are not "fakes" and are made by Adlake even if they never were owned by a railroad.  Posted Friday, May 15, 2020 by KM

A. Although it is true that this same style of lamp was used in many places other than RR's (boats, for example, and buildings before electricity became widely available) the RR's did buy them new in the box. The collars on these, supporting the top of the globe and the shade, are particularly indicative of mobile use with occasional hard knocks from different directions. The RR's would have been buying them to equip newly-converted bunk cars, for example. or for when they built their own cabooses or rider cars, or for replacements after accidents. And like many things, they probably sat on shelves, new in the box and never opened, in store rooms long after everything went electric.  Posted Friday, May 15, 2020 by RJMc

A. The burner knob doesnt have ridden? on it. The last 4 letters are ston. Which looks more like the haston com. to me. Still working on a date.  Posted Sunday, May 24, 2020 by PA

 Q3745 Piper CPR Lamp  Greetings from the U.K. I purchased this lamp at an auction here last year. It is stamped NL Piper Toronto and is embossed CPR C. I'm in the process of stripping off the awful silver paint job and have discovered the base appears to be galvanized metal. The center section looks cast metal, with the top tin plate. Two crude additions of red and green glass had been added (not original?) over the clear convex ringed lenses. The oil reservoir is also stamped Piper. The lamp seems original and I was wondering if anyone has any details regarding it? I'm guessing it's a caboose lamp as it has the bracket on the base. Couple of questions: What colour would it have been painted? What colour lenses should it have? (Guessing clear may not be original either?) What is the little lidded box for on the rear? Kind regards,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, April 29, 2020 by Keith   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Barrett and Gross's Illustrated Encyc of RR Lighting Vol. 2 on RR Lamps has extensive info on the long history of the various Piper companies and the very wide range of lamps they made. The N.L. Piper Co. was in business in Toronto between about 1900 and 1930. They used the same basic body as your lamp for multiple purposes: markers, train order signals, and classification lamps -- all illustrated in Barrett. Your lamp best fits the class light description based on the type of mounting bracket, the changeable lens colors, and the hinged service door. The rectangular 'pocket' box held the colored filter lenses not in use at any given time. Class lamps typically needed 3 colors: clear/white for running extra, green for running in multiple sections of trains, and red for a marker when the engine was running in reverse. A description of a very similar station train order lamp mentions the brass font. And all of the Piper lamps pictured in Barrett are finished in black -- actually very important for safety to make the illuminated lenses stand out at night.  Posted Thursday, April 30, 2020 by RJMc

A. Thanks RJMc for the comprehensive reply, most informative.  Posted Saturday, May 2, 2020 by KW

A. A key difference between marker lamps and class lamps: in actual use a class lamp had to display just one color to all directions. So you would need two or more green filters, etc to have a complete set for one class light. When they made so-called 'automatic' changing class lamps,the single selector lever switched the color on all sides. A single marker usually displayed a combination of colors: red and green, red and yellow and the combination and pointing direction changed the meaning, usually accomplished by rotating the whole lamp body or changing to a different mounting shoe so that add-on filters were not usually required for markers. Before everyone on the RR had a radio in his pocket, and before there was a telephone box at every siding switch, the indications provided by the class lights, switch lamps and markers were life-and-death critical to the operations to avoid collisions. This is why such intense design effort was used to produce such durable hardware by RR's that often preferred not to spend money.  Posted Monday, May 4, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3744 Armspear Lamp Questions  I purchased this Armspear lamp on-line and after cleaning all the dust off of it I have a few questions. I believe it to be a switch lamp. Is there a way to narrow down the year of production based on the design? There are two hard to read tags on it with several patent dates. The smaller blue glass lenses are marked Corning and the larger orange lenses are marked Kopp. Are they original, and if so, is it unusual the two colors are from different manufacturers on the lantern? What is the meaning of the raised S 120 on the base of the mounting bracket? There is a small raised circular area between two of the lenses on one side of the lantern, about the size of a quarter. Is it a knock-out for adding something? The burner is marked The Adams & Westlake Company. Is it most likely original to the lantern? I can not find any railroad company reference on it. Was Armspear common for any specific railroad line? Finally, how does the Armspear brand rank among the other railroad lantern brands as far as quality and popularity among collectors? Thank you!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, April 27, 2020 by Jeff   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. See the Link which takes you to the Archives on this RRiana site to an illustrated 1933 Armspear catalog. Armspear was heavily promoting your type of lamp at that time, as being very versatile, and the catalog shows exploded views and parts lists for your model of lamp. It is definitely set up to be a switch lamp, determined by the cast base. The S120 in the base is probably the casting/part no. for that exact base. Look up inside the hollow socket in the base: there may be cast RR initials on one of the side walls of the socket. If there is no ID tag or stamping, that's your best chance of possibly confirming which of many Armspear customer RR's that originally purchased it. The small circle between the lenses might have been for a 'peep hole' window to let a maintainer adjust the wick height/flame once servicing was complete and everything was closed up in normal operating position. As highlighted in the Armspear catalog, the various piece parts were widely standardized across the entire North American RR industry, and Armspear refers to 'reclamation'-- the process of lamps being brought in and overhauled many times to extend their often decades-long service life. During that process every imaginable combination of mix-and-match happened so there is no way to know which parts may have been original to the lamp. And if it didn't happen then, it often happened later as collectors changed everything around. Enter 'switch lamp' in the Search by Word' box to see lots of discussion about the various lens colors and combinations that were used.  Link 1  Posted Tuesday, April 28, 2020 by RJMc

A. The 'peep hole' was usually in the top of the lamp body. If your small circle is in the bottom half, it might have been to allow using a longer external wick raiser shaft, since the burner you have has the short version. And congratulations on having the small glass chimney; many switch lamps ended up without them both before and after leaving RR service. Posted Tuesday, April 28, 2020 by RJMc

A. >>>>>>Gentlemen, just wanted to add upon examining the top circle I described closer you can see through parts of it where paint has worn off, it's actually a glass disc? Were they sometimes painted over to prevent any clear light from showing? Is it odd that the wick raiser thing you turn can not be turned in a full circle? It actually strikes the top of the base and can only be turned fully when the burner is unscrewed and seperated. There is a covered hole on the lower half of the lantern that is more in line for an extended wick raiser access. From the inside of the lantern the hole can be exposed by sliding over the piece of metal covering it. Thanks again! Posted Tuesday, April 28, 2020 by Jeff

A. The paint covering the peep hole window is just lazy or careless repainting of the whole lamp. Maybe by the RR, or a later owner who didn't have to maintain a bunch of lamps every day in the field. Posted Wednesday, April 29, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3743 Inspector Lantern  I have a Acme Inspector lamp (production date stamp S-11-26) that I want to clean up and have some questions I hope you can help with. It has the 'mercury' glass type reflector. On the back side of the reflector, there is a hole (which I assume was used when the glass was blown / molded) covered with a cloth backed piece of paper that has come loose. Can you tell me what type of adhesive I should use to re-attach this with. Also, the silvering solution on the front side directly across from the hole has worn away (about a dime sized spot) is there a way to restore the missing finish before I re-cover the hole. The flat braided wick is about 3 inches long and has a piece of cloth loosely stitched to it, hanging down into the fuel tank. Was this the original configuration, or just something someone added to use more of the wick when it became too short to reach the fuel? Thanks,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, April 26, 2020 by SR   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Regarding the mirrored reflector, there are many articles on the web about "DIY Re-Silvering Of Mirrors." And the silvering processes are also written up in various chemical laboratory 'how to' handbooks. But any process such as that, similar to electroplating, requires extremely careful preparation, cleaning and handling of the surface if the new coating is to stick and provide a smooth, presentable reflector. And in your case, with such a small bad spot, you would likely threaten the remaining original coating. Since the majority of your surface seems to be a beautiful mirror, I would be inclined to suggest accepting it as is --'wart' and all. To have much of a hope of a perfect (matched0 surface all the way across, you might have to remove the existing mirroring and start over. And that might well result in a total loss rather than a total restoration.  Posted Sunday, April 26, 2020 by RJMc

A. You can get a new wick from Woody Kirkman at lanterns.net. Posted Monday, April 27, 2020 by LC

A. Don't see a filler cap there, you can get one at Woody Kirkman Posted Monday, April 27, 2020 by DC

A. If I'm not mistaken, these mirrored reflectors are standard equipment made in standard sizes to fit all kinds of lamps. If it was me I would take it along with me to antique shops and check out auctions for an identical twin in more perfect condition. Try to find antique lighting specialists. These are not the commonest thing but definitely are not rare. It is definitely good advice to not tamper with re-silvering, unless you know what you are doing and have experience. It's not like paint.  Posted Wednesday, April 29, 2020 by JMS

 Q3742 Adlake Kero #300 Lantern  My question relates to the article, 'Adams & Westlake Kero Lanterns: The Last Stand', in railroadiana.org. The article states that the month and year stamped on the bottom of this lantern was eliminated in 1964. The article also states that the manufacturer started drilling an oil drain hole in the bottom of the lantern in 1965 or 1966. Attached are two photos: a 1959 Adlake Kero lantern with a drain hole, and a 1961 Adlake Kero lantern with a drain hole. Since the article is clearly incorrect, does anyone know when Adams & Westlake started drilling drain holes in the bottom of their Adlake Kero lanterns? The company still makes these lanterns today and these subtle changes help me tell the age of the lanterns post 1964. Thanks,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, April 22, 2020 by John  Link 1     Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. As the holes go through the lettering, it looks like someone drilled the holes after the lantern left the factory without drain holes. I have one of the Adlake lanterns made post Rail Road era and it has the drain hole but no lettering on the bottom. The lid is stamped "RAILROAD". Posted Thursday, April 23, 2020 by LC

A. The drain hole was added in 1956. Posted Tuesday, April 28, 2020 by JFR

A. I would tend to agree with LC. A close up of the hole shows what appear to be less than perfectly smooth edges, somebody drilled it. Actually, that is a good idea because it prevents condensation/rust inside, but this does appear to be an "after market" hole. The original holes would have been stamped out of the flat sheet metal before it was cut into rounds that would be molded into fount holders. These have perfectly smooth edges from stamping, not drilling.  Posted Wednesday, April 29, 2020 by JMS

 Q3740 Conductor Lantern  I acquired this lantern a couple of months ago. I finally got some time to clean it up. Sold as a C T Ham lantern. During cleaning process I could not find a single mark on the lantern anywhere, not even the fuel cup holder. The only mark is on the burner thumb wheel. That is marked E Miller Meriden Conn. I looked at a Ham catalog online and found 3 lanterns that were close to this in construction. All had a different finial design/shape and all appeared to have holes in the finial. This finial is close to a ball in shape and has no holes. Ham wasn't the only one making these lanterns. Is there any clue that it is Ham or a clue that it is another manufacturer? Or is the best thing to say is it could be a Ham lantern?   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, April 19, 2020 by Drew   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. I simply have not had time to try to research this, but on page 72 of "Illustrated Encyclopedia of Railroad Lighting Vol. 1 The Railroad Lantern" (Barrett and Gross) there is a depiction of an Armspear No. 4 (ARM-4) that looks suspiciously like yours. I'm not saying this is it; I simply can't get through the rest of the book, and I hope you can figure it out. I looked through the Ham section and indeed, there is nothing that could be the same as yours. Good luck !  Posted Wednesday, April 22, 2020 by jms

A. Thank you very much. I had forgotten about Armspear. Looked at the 1907 Armspear catalog here at Railroadiana and the hood is definitely the same. The lower combustion air intake is different though, my lantern having one row of holes and the 1907 catalog lantern having two rows. A tantalizing similarity. I will look into getting a copy of "Illustrated Encyclopedia of Railroad Lighting Vol. 1" and keep looking around to see what I can find out. Would be nice if I could pin it down as Armspear. Adlake and Ham are automatically thought of when looking at Conductor's lanterns, but Armspear and Handlan-Buck are forgotten. Now I wonder if during its history Handlan-Buck also made them? Drew Posted Thursday, April 23, 2020 by DAM

A. Unfortunately, most of the antique catalogs no longer exist and Barrett only printed what he could find. I noticed the different air intake the same as you but nothing else I found in the book was even close. Maybe the air intake design changed and yours is either earlier or later, or a holdover design from before the 1907 catalog, or ... Best of luck -! These early lanterns are so wonderful and yours looks like it is in superb condition. Congratulations !!!  Posted Wednesday, April 29, 2020 by jms

 Q3737 US&S Signal info?  I cannot find any information about this signal. When produced? Who used them? Even a photo in real life would be great. I cannot find anything. Any help would be great. Thank you   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, April 5, 2020 by Dave   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. In Link 1 above, the sixth pic in the article looks like your model signal, installed on a main line spring switch, probably somewhere in the western U.S..  Posted Sunday, April 5, 2020 by RJMc

A. Looking at the 'image info' for that #6 pic shows "Atsf/Albuquerque/2ndDistrict/PintaSouthSprSw/". Signals in this style were used as early as the 1920's and are still in use today.  Posted Sunday, April 5, 2020 by RJMc

A. I think you have one form of a 'Switch Position Indicator Signal." It only needs the two lights to indicate whether the track switch position is normal or reversed. See Link 1 for a good description of the functions of various kinds with pix of both main line and yard uses. My first impression from your particular signal is it was probably to indicate the status of a main line spring switch -- this impression is based on the use of regular heavy-duty signal sizes and qualtiy. See Link 2 for a lot of discussion about spring switches. In the one I particularly recalled, in a mainly single-track route the RR had installed about 2 miles of double track with a spring switch at each end to create a passing track. A train entering from either end was routinely directed to the right-hand track (as viewed from its own engine) and did not have to stop to either line itself in, or close the seitch back after passing over it, or to exit from the other end because the 'spring' part of the switch there let it out. BUT as indicated in the link, once the train started passing over the other spring switch (at the far end) it could NEVER back up without manually throwing and locking the switch or a derailment resulted as different parts of the train tried to use both tracks at once.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Sunday, April 5, 2020 by RJMc

A. This does appear to be a switch indication light. While this US&S style is one I have never worked on , it is somewhat similar to the GRS ones we had in the yard . The GRS ones were double sides but did the same job. The longer hoods were different , as the ones I worked with had shorter hoods since the crews were close to the switches , and the longer hoods would have blocked their vision of its indication.  Posted Monday, April 6, 2020 by hvcoll

A. Just to fill in the details, the ATSF Historical Society has track charts for all, or almost all, of the Santa Fe system available online. So "Pinta" turns out to be Pinta, AZ, on the double-tracked Santa Fe Transcon main line between Gallup, NM, and Winslow, AZ. The track chart (for 1992) confirms there were spring switches there which let trains in and out of 'lap sidings' which were probably used to let faster trains overtake and pass slower trains, and the pic in Link 1 above confirms they used your type of signal there.  Posted Thursday, April 9, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3736 Globe Restoration  Many years ago I bought on old railroad lantern with a red globe in a misc. box of tools at an auction. It was dirty and had sat in that muddy old wooden box through several winters. In cleaning it up, I disassembled it and washed the glass in warm soapy water. To my great disappointment, as I washed the inside of the globe the red began to lift away and flake off the glass. So, all these years it's been just a clear globe. Is there any way to properly re-flash the globe red again without making one bad mistake worse?  Posted Sunday, April 5, 2020 by Sam   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. "Flashing" is a skim layer(s) of colored glass over clear. See Link 1. It's glass, any kind of restoration would require a professional glass person. It's not a home repair like paint. (I don't know your expertise level - are you sure it was not paint? Sometimes these get painted!) However, I would really wonder how glass, unless it had encountered some weird condition that compromised it (overheating?), would wash off in a normal hand washing type of situation. My experience with flashed glass is that it will chip around edges, and probably could be scratched off, but I've never had it come off washing in soap and water. I hope someone else can shed some light on this.  Link 1  Posted Sunday, April 5, 2020 by jms

A. I think jms is right, it was probably paint. Never heard or seen a flashed globe loose it's color and I have many Dietz #40s red and blue and Embury Traffic Gards in my collection.There are paints for glass as I used amber on a clear globe and it came out pretty good. Just search "paint for glass" and you'll find your red glass paint. Posted Monday, April 6, 2020 by LC

A. In the 'good old days' people used 'bulb dye' -- a form of paint that came in small bottles -- on clear light bulbs to make red or amber lamps for cars and trucks. Your local auto parts store might still carry it. Other sources may be specialty stores dealing in stained glass and/or the art/hobby/craft stores such as Frank's. If you go this way, you really need to think it thru first to hope to get a uniform layer of color. Unless that globe is marked in some unusual way, I would really suggest just going on the web and buying a different red globe. They are commonly available both new and used. They were expendable items on the RR that got broken and replaced all the time. And almost every model of hand lantern ever used on a RR had many different colors of globes used at different times and places, so there would be nothing wrong or unusual if your lantern just keeps its now-clear globe. Posted Monday, April 6, 2020 by RJMc

A.  In the past 60 years the only time I have seen flashing come free was near the top and bottom edges where there was a chip. and all were very small . I agree with the others that this was probably not flashed but painted.  Posted Monday, April 6, 2020 by hvcoll

 Q3732 NYC Lamp Question  I have a NYCRR caboose lantern with three yellow and one red lens. Is this normal and what kind of oil did they burn? Did the flame color effect the color of the final light? Thank you.  Posted Sunday, March 29, 2020 by RJD   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. See prior q'S 3476 and 2881 for a lot of discussion on marker light lens colors, including markers that used 3 yellows and one red on several different major RR's. Most of these burned regular kerosene, same as was used in the hand lanterns. Yes, the flame color was factored into the lens colors to make sure the final light was a distinguishable color. The RR's and the glass industry did extensive research and development and set very rigorous standards to deal with that issue. Entering 'glass colors' (no quotes) in the word or phrase search box brings up prior Q's 3366, 2899, and 2670, and there are others, where the issue has been extensively discussed on the site here.  Posted Sunday, March 29, 2020 by RJMc

A. See Link 1 for a complete 1930 Erie Railroad Rule Book ( a great resource to answer all kinds of questions!). A series of 8 pix/diagrams start on page 34, all showing the proper uses of markers and classification lights using only red and yellow lens colors.  Link 1  Posted Saturday, April 18, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3726 Cast Iron RR Pot Lamp  I acquired a cast iron pot w/ a screw top funnel and a rope wick with the raised markings: Santa Fe Route NO 5973. It's about 7 inches tall and about 4.5 inches diameter at bottom. Very heavy and solid Can you provide any info on this little beast? Thanks.  Posted Wednesday, March 4, 2020 by Mark D.   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. A photo would help here. It sounds like you have a torch or a smudge pot. Check Q 2693 and Q 2510 in the Search By Question Number for more information. Is it round shaped like a ball or cylindrical?  Posted Thursday, March 5, 2020 by KM

 Q3725 Lantern Question  I bought a old lantern years ago -- a Handlan Wabash RR with a twist off font. It came with a short simplex handle burner. I have 2 questions: Did this lantern come with that burner or should it have another burner in it. Of course there is no opening for a drop in burner, long handle? My other question is: Did Handlan make a twist off font like this one shown in my picture? If so is this a rare lantern. I haven't seen any other one like this. Thank You.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, March 3, 2020 by D   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. The Link is to one of the 1918 Handlan catalog pages in the archives here on the RRiana Site. The Link shows the details of the font and twist-off base for the No. 176 lantern, which look to be the same as yours. I also have a lantern marked "The Handlan" on top (their quotation marks stamped into the top!) from the N.W. Pacific which has the same font arrangement; apparently it was pretty typical for Handlan. Further down in the 1918 catalog pages they have the No. 113 lantern, which they state to be the same body as the No. 176, but with batteries and an electric bulb fitted in place of the oil burner assy.  Link 1  Posted Thursday, March 5, 2020 by RJMc

A. The additional Link below shows the several pages in the 1918 catalog in the archives on this site. In 1918 Handlan offered lanterns with model nos. from 174 to 181, all generally similar to the 176, but the different model nos. came with different burner and wick raiser options but all using the twistoff base principle.  Link 1  Posted Saturday, March 7, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3721 Lantern Burner Standards?  I wanted to find out from the experts what pots and burners were used in the Adlake lanterns. Most I have seen from photos have fuel pots marked with Adlake letters that match either the top of the lantern markings (Adlake) or the bottom or in other words were some what of a match. Recently I saw an Adlake lantern with an Armspear burner, and I wanted to find out if interchanging of burners with lamp manufacturers was common. I also saw a fellow with an Adlake lantern with a Handlan burner. What I wanted to get an idea on was how common was it for Adlake lanterns to come up with other burners and maybe a reference to go to when I see a lamp manufacturer with a different burner than the lamp housing. It seems parts were very interchangeable and this really can add to the confusion. Lastly did Dressel lanterns always have Dressel burners/pots marked Dressel? Thanks for the time and rules of thumb would be great to start with.  Posted Tuesday, February 25, 2020 by Ed F   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. When RR's bought new lanterns and signal lamps -- sometimes by the thousands -- they would almost certainly be delivered with burners provided and marked by the original supplier. But RR's beginning even in the 1880's formed the American Railroad Association (ARA) which turned into the Association of American RR's (AAR) and those organizations had and have many technical committees with representatives from all the various RR's and also from suppliers. Standardization of various parts --including rolling stock, track parts, and auxiliary items such as lamps and lanterns, and much else -- is a main objective of those committees. This work insures that the parts meet the harsh requirements of service on the RR's, and insures interchangeability of parts between units from the different suppliers. This encourages competition, minimizes spare parts inventories, and keeps the costs down for the RR's. So once items are placed in service, 'mix and match' of components is very, very common.  Posted Tuesday, February 25, 2020 by RJMc

A. Thank you for such a quick response.I am a pure novice and trying to tie it all together. It certainly helps explain why I was seeing different burners and pots on manufactures. Wanted to run three combinations by the experts I have recently seen when viewing lanterns in collections trying to learn or for sale. The mix and match I have seen recently are listed below. Please let me know what combinations you see as legit or in other words would make sense. Tried to list the most recent. 1. An Armspeare 1925 lantern with an Armspeare burner and wick adjuster on a NO.300 Kero pot. 2. Dressel lantern with a NO.300 Kero pot/burner/wick adjuster 3. An Adlake 4-63 Lantern with a Handlan burner/fuel pot and circular marked Handlan wick adjuster. Comments much appreciated. It seems like the NO 300 Kero pot was quite popular and I assume was used in all Adlake lamps even those listed as the 250 or 100 series?? Lastly are there any combinations that would never occur or is it just wide open on mix and match as originally stated in response to my post. Again many thanks for the opportunity to get some answers on a very complicated part of history...the railroads! Posted Thursday, February 27, 2020 by ED

A.  In the Search Archived Q&A's by question number check out #2168 and also check in the Home Page item "Lanterns" and then the item for "Lantern Oddities".  Posted Thursday, February 27, 2020 by KM

A. Railroad companies for almost the entire existence of the industry have been VERY "low margin" businesses. That means usually almost, if not actually, bankrupt. Under these conditions new equipment (with matched parts) and replacement parts for the equipment in hand have often been non-existent. When you are out in some field, in the rain or snow, trying to do the job, there are NO limits on what might get put together, even if it takes hammering things to get them to almost fit. And often in railroading a lot of mechanically very smart people have had time on their hands. So mixing and matching parts of various things, and getting them to work afterwards, rates as almost a contact sport and challenging entertainment for railroaders. I can say with a fair degree of assurance: if the parts can be put together, and preferably made to work together, somebody on some railroad has done it. There is no stigma attached to parts that have mingled if function is maintained. It is much more the case that there may be bonus points if all the parts are original.  Posted Monday, March 2, 2020 by RJMc

 Q3719 RR Candle Lantern?  It has been a while since I last posted about this candle lamp I found in my possession - [Question 3605]. I was looking at the lantern again today and discovered something I should have seen before. On the back door of the lantern there is a piece of purple glass stored in a slot. I was able to remove the purple glass from the compartment. It is the perfect size to slide down in a compartment on the front of the lantern behind the clear glass. In previous posts I pointed out that the side hinged doors on the right and left side reveal a green glass panel on one side and a red glass panel on the other. I have attached 2 pictures - one showing the purple glass in the compartment at the rear of the lantern and one showing the purple glass in position on the front of the lantern. I don't know if this would help anyone to further identify this lantern as to what kind it is, but I hope it will help shed some light. I appreciate any comments on the identity of this lantern. Thank you.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, February 9, 2020 by WJ   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. On reflection (pun somewhat intended) that purple panel makes the darkroom application even more likely, with the side panels fairly obviously designed to totally shut off any light leakage from the unselected sides of the lamp. The different kinds of emulsions used for glass plate negatives, printing papers, and later films (all to produce black-and-white or sepia monochrome images) respond to different light colors and correspondingly DON't respond to selected colors -- such as the colors in this lamp.  Posted Monday, February 10, 2020 by RJMc

A. This is a German carbide railroad lamp minus the water/carbide reservoir. WWII versions are marked on the back of the reservoir with a Waffin Mark, later versions are marked with a winged railraod wheel DB(Deutch Bundesbahn}. KFK Posted Monday, February 10, 2020 by KFK

A. Correction to previous post misspelled-should be "Waffen" Mark. Also, adjustments on German carbide lamps on top behind curved vent-maybe an earlier version with adjustments on inside of lamp. Posted Tuesday, February 11, 2020 by KFK

 Q3718 Diameter of Lamp Wick  I have just acquired an Adlake #1112 switch lantern. It is missing the glass chimney and the wick. I found the glass chimney on the W. T. Kirkman web site but I am not sure of the diameter of the wick that I would need to return the lantern to full functionality. If anyone could let me know the diameter, it would be very helpful. Thanks in advance. Best regards, Posted Saturday, February 8, 2020 by JW   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. The Link is to the archives here on the RRiana site where the Adlake catalog materials are available. The document at the Link discusses (with dimensions) almost every type of burner imaginable for use in Adlake lamps and spends a couple of pages extolling their special round center core wicks. But they never give the diameter, just their part no. for the wick. Link 1  Posted Saturday, February 8, 2020 by RJMc

A. Go back and ask Woody Kirkman via email or send ADLAKE an email, they have a web site. I think they'll help you out. Posted Sunday, February 9, 2020 by LC

A. If you take the burner to a good hardware store or camping supplies store that has kerosene lantern wick for sale (I checked, and even WalMart sells wick!) you should be able to fit the burner with a correct size. It's not rocket science - the edges of the wick should not crowd the burner, and thickness should roll through it readily. Wicks are made in several standard sizes.  Posted Saturday, February 15, 2020 by JMS

 Q3715 Inspector's Lantern?  We inhereited this copper/brass lantern singed Joseph Ratcliff & Sons Birmingham. I’ve been researching but really having a hard time deciding if it is a railroad lamp or not. Can you help? Thank you so much,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, January 24, 2020 by Patrice   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Not a railroad/railway lamp but possibly maritime. Made in Birmingham, England. Posted Saturday, January 25, 2020 by JAJ

A.  See Q 3708 for information about lantern and lamp manufacturers from Birmingham,UK. The list that shows maker marks says that the Ratcliff family was in the copper and brass forming business since 1842. Your lamp appears to be a candle lamp and not oil fired with a burner and tank and that may help date it. The sides and back of the lamp are not painted and it may have been placed into an alcove or nook in a wall on a boat. You may want to contact the Central Public Library in Birmingham and ask them for help with your research.  Link 1  Posted Saturday, February 1, 2020 by KM

 Q3714 Question on Keystone Casey Lantern  One of my Keystone Casey lanterns has an etched globe with the PRR Keystone logo. I am always suspicious of etched globes and suspect this was the handiwork of some shady antique dealer. Regardless however I am inquiring as to if there is any known history of Casey globes such as this one? Thank you for any information you can offer.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, January 21, 2020 by Alan   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. The good group Key Lock & Lantern did globe surveys some years ago and reports that the Pennsylvania Railroad did use Keystone Casey lanterns. Also, the PRR did have 5-3/8" clear globes etched PRR in a keystone (See the list, link 1). Also reported in this design were clear cast, red cast, blue etched and red etched globes. If I'm not mistaken, Casey lanterns will accept any of the 5-3/8 - 5-1/2 inch globes (somebody correct me if I am wrong?). That said, simply because of its size, the great big keystone does tend to make one wonder if it is fake, but I am not familiar enough with PRR to know. And fake etching is always possible.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Wednesday, January 22, 2020 by JMS

 Q3713 Lantern Help Needed  I have an Adlake railroad lantern that I came across while visiting Tower, Minnesota many years ago. The cap says DM&I RR. Is the identification indicating Duluth Missabe & Iron Range? The single 'I' makes me question whether it would be Iron Range. It also has a bulb in it with wiring. Thank you for any help or info you can give me.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, January 16, 2020 by Alana   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Possible explanation--Officially the DM&IR Railway, so the RR here is not for Railroad....just a spacing error. Another sample might read "DM&IR Ry.", with the small y left out on yours but the period is there. Posted Thursday, January 16, 2020 by ShastaRoute

A. Try Q2285 if you need any more confusion. Posted Thursday, January 16, 2020 by ShastaRoute

A. The lantern is marked for the Duluth Missabe & Iron Range Railway Company - no doubt about it. An Adlake worker just accidentally left off the last "Y" when making up the stamping die, is all. These lanterns are industrial artifacts made to a price and so production was fast and quality assurance probably minimal. Several ones I have are just stamped DM&IR. Others are stamped DM&IR RY. As for the light bulb, it is a later addition by someone trying to make the lantern into a table lamp or porch light; it is nothing the railroad did.  Posted Friday, January 17, 2020 by JEM

A. After doing some digging, I found out the lantern is from a resort outside of Tower, MN. It was used on an old wooden bridge that joined mainland to a small island to mark the channel for boats. The owner of the resort electrified one red and one green. Turns out to be a good piece of lake memorabilia. Thanks for all the info.  Posted Friday, January 17, 2020 by Alana

 Q3712 PRR Dietz '999' Lanterns?  Did the PRR (Pennsylvania Railroad) use the Dietz '999' lantern? Are they rare?  Posted Thursday, January 16, 2020 by JFR   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Not rare if marked for the NY Central or not marked for any Rail Road. Others may be rare depending on which Rail Road they're marked for. See Link 1 Link 1  Posted Saturday, January 18, 2020 by LC

 Q3708 Lamp/lantern Info?  I want to find more information about this V&R Blakemore Birmingham lantern. It resembles the Wakefield lanterns, but the brass tag reads Blakemore. Not sure if it refers to Birmingham Alabama or Birmingham England. Also not sure if it is military or railroad. Haven't been able to locate any info on Google. Any ideas?   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, January 5, 2020 by JK   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. I vote for Birmingham,England. It looks very similar to other multi color track walker lamps that were used by railways in Britain and also elsewhere in Europe. Birmingham,UK has always been the location for many manufacturers of brass and sheet metal items. See the following question numbers in the Archives, 3138, 2541, 1712, 1565,1533, 1277, and 428. The link below is from Q1565 and it is a list of brass and metal manufacturers from Birmingham that are pre-1950. V&R Blakemore is not shown on that list so it is possible that your lamp was made after 1950. You might want to contact the Central Public Library in Birmingham,UK and see if they can find information on V&R Blakemore. Link 1  Posted Monday, January 6, 2020 by KM

A.  This lamp also resembles a Henry J. Pratt,Birmingham lamp that I have seen. Pratt is included on the Birmingham list in the link, but I don't see Wakefield there. A possibility is that Wakefield and Blakemore were distributors of lamps that had them manufactured by another company that placed the distributor name on them. Similar to Craftsman tools or Kenmore appliances, Sears never made those, some one else did and placed the Sears brand name on them.  Posted Monday, January 6, 2020 by KM

A. It's definitely British. A Google search brought up a lot of V&R Blakemore information. See Link 1.  Link 1  Posted Thursday, January 9, 2020 by JMS

 Q3706 Lantern Info?  I would like to know as much as possible about this lantern. All help will be greatly appreciated. This lantern is stamped the Adams and Westlake company Chicago, New York on the top. I don't see any model number. It has a 1909 patent date and MRR also stamped on it. The globe has no writing on it. Thank you in advance for any and all help identify this lantern.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, December 29, 2019 by DBN   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Link 2 above did not work to show the results, but just use Link 1 and enter MRR in the "search by initials" box to see the RR's listed.  Posted Tuesday, December 31, 2019 by RJMc

A. A very useful feature on this Q&A site is the search feature for railroad names, given the initials. Unlike some references, it includes Canadian and Mexican roads. It is under the Railroadiana Home heading, then look under 'Railroad Names' or use the first link below. The second link shows the answer for RR's or Ry's that might have initials MRR. Unortunately, without credible history for your particular lantern, there is no way to tell which of the over 40 listed RR's your lantern may have come from.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Tuesday, December 31, 2019 by RJMc

 Q3703 Lamp Info?  I was hoping you could tell me a little bit about this lamp. My Dad gave it to me. It’s was found in West TN.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, December 18, 2019 by KG   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. This looks like a really lovely wall fixture. I hope you will clean the green tarnish off. From your photos it appears to be a gas fixture. Hopefully others more knowledgeable will come on and give you a better response. SEE Link 1 for a 2018 auction of one of the finest railroad lighting collections, with prices realized. You may find something similar.  Link 1  Posted Saturday, December 21, 2019 by JMS

A. Thank you. There were some others at that link.  Posted Thursday, January 9, 2020 by KG

 Q3701 Lantern Pot Burner/wick Assembly Removal  I have acquired a CBQ switch lantern with a round pot, but can’t remove the burner/wick assembly from the pot. Does it screw into the pot, or is it just push in? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.  Posted Tuesday, December 10, 2019 by KBS   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Some burners pushed in, and some screwed in. You have the item in your hand and if you can't tell if the burner is pushed in or screwed in, a picture probably won't help. Spray some solvent like Liquid Wrench or Deep Creep on the interface with the pot twice a day and keep trying to loosen it. Be careful of flammable solvent fumes if indoors. As a last resort a little applied torch heat done outdoors might help, but if the pot has old kerosene or some solvent in it - be very careful.  Posted Tuesday, December 10, 2019 by JEM

A. Thanks-that did the trick Posted Thursday, December 12, 2019 by KBS

 Q3699 Lamp Questions  I'm looking for some help with an ID on a railroad lamp. My wife found this at an estate sale in USA and thinking of our potential son-in-law Bryan, who loves trains and airplanes, bought it. So, is it an Adlake lamp? If so what time period? I’ve included 2 pics with comments. Thanks!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, December 5, 2019 by Martin   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. An Adlake lamp would be stamped "ADLAKE" on the rain cap. This lamp does not look like anything made in America, and the folded over rain cap looks exactly the same as those on the poorly made "railroad" lamps sold and shipped from India, and described on eBay as "decorative" lamps. See Link 1 for one for sale on eBay.  Link 1  Posted Friday, December 6, 2019 by JEM

A. I'm guessing that the fresnel lenses are inferior to Kopp and Corning lenses as well. Posted Saturday, December 7, 2019 by LC

A. In the first answer, JEM has it right. Looking at the Link above, you can see that these were/are sold now as "decorative" -- meaning not authentic RR -- with electric bulb sockets but with a very light-duty cord and switch certainly NOT suitable for outdoor use. And it does not look like the electric bulb would have lined up with the (too small) lenses. It is also clear that these were (partly) direct copies of other lamps. So whoever did the copying included the square rails on the bottom of the interior, noted in your pic, which would have held the square tank for the kerosene burner if the socket had not been put in the way. The welded-on flat base saved them from having to make several more-complicated parts normally on the base of either a switch lamp or marker lamp.  Posted Saturday, December 7, 2019 by RJMc

A. More of these are being sold now, in quantity, by a seller in Rajistan, India, on the web as "used, antique, vintage former Indian Railways, repaired, Adlake style..." Posted Sunday, December 8, 2019 by RJMc

A. I think the folks have the right idea, but as I see it, you have what I would compare to a Chevy with some Ford parts, some Toyota parts, some Austin Healey parts , some homemade parts, with parts from a Mack truck on the side. You ain`t gonna hurt it , that was done long ago, so do what you want to make it look good, and be happy. Late in the steam years, the lamp shop sometimes use spare parts to keep an old lamp in service, but I do not remember one this modified.  Posted Sunday, December 8, 2019 by hvcoll

A. RJMc is right on. Check the links below - both are so typical of these India imports. (I disagree with the one claiming his date from 1800s-early 1900s, my guess is they were made closer to the last couple of years). I see more and more of these all the time, and it is sad that they can fool people who are not railroadiana knowledgeable.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Sunday, December 15, 2019 by JMS

 Q3698 A&W C.C.C.&St.L. Lantern with Penn. Lines Globe  Forwarding this barn fresh as found Big Four for a third party to get any second insight. First impressions are welcome too. TIA .   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, December 2, 2019 by ShastaRoute   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. First impression is your a lucky guy to have scored it. Second impression is de-rust it, clean, strip that old paint job as it doesn't appear to be original. Posted Tuesday, December 3, 2019 by LC

A. They certainly were lucky. I think the owner's immediate concern was the oddities in the road's lettering....no period behind the third C, "S. L." instead of "St. L.", and no period after "Ry". The crossover of a Pennsylvania Lines globe seemed odd here, but everything got dumped into PennCentral in the last years...could someone have pulled old stock from storage to send out as supplies in those final days? Posted Wednesday, December 4, 2019 by ShastaRoute

A. As I understand it , when the lines merged into Penn Central, it was found that although battery lanterns were the norm , it was still required in the books to have a kerosene lantern available. This is why they scraped up and dug out anything to use , from the prior railroads. Not finding enough to match regulations , new PC lanterns were also purchased. Posted Wednesday, December 11, 2019 by hvcoll

A. Well that would be well into the era of "Safety Orange" paint, even if applied long after the fact of delivery. Since we are concerned with "Railroad" useage rathern than just lantern manufacturer factory floor products, it would seem well worth having as-is photo records kept on-hand before items are stripped bare...if only just for reasons of historical inquiry into real life practices. Posted Saturday, December 14, 2019 by ShastaRoute

A. Sorry, but this lantern (and globe) are WAY too old to have anything to do with Penn Central. The CCC&StL (Big Four) and PRR Lines (which stood for PRR Lines WEST of Pittsburg)each served the same multi-state territory. That was bounded by Cleveland, Pittsburgh, Cincinnatti, St. Louis, Chicago, and Detroit. Both RR's had so many main lines and branch lines criss-crossing the territory that I suspect it was a very unusual place where the line of one was more than ten miles from a line of the other, and both had thousands and maybe tens of thousands of employees, and lanterns. So I'm sure it was not unusual, after breaking a globe, to end up with a globe marked for the other road. And this comment applied when those RR's were using those initials -- probably into the 1920's -- as well as later in generations of barns, junk shops,and antique stores in that territory as well as across the nation. That said, it is a nice lantern, but I would assign no significance in particular to the match between the lantern and globe.  Posted Thursday, December 19, 2019 by RJMc

 Q3695 Pyle Railroad Light Use?  Could you give me information on what this light was used for? And is it an antique? Thank you,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, November 19, 2019 by Sherry   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Please send some pix of the interior of the housing. It appears maybe to be a 'Gyralite' that would have been used as a flashing warning light on the front of a locomotive or a cab control car, but hard tell from only the single view.  Posted Tuesday, November 19, 2019 by RJMc

A. The Link has a lot of video shots of Chicago Metra commuter trains which have single-beam oscillating headlights on both cab cars and some of their locomotive series. If your light has the motor driven oscillating mechanism inside, that is how it would have been employed. The red paint on your light also matches some of the Metra units.  Link 1  Posted Wednesday, November 20, 2019 by RJMc

 Q3691 Lantern Marking?  I am having difficulties determining what RY line this was. Cant find any information for M&I C RY, just M&I. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, November 11, 2019 by Fran    Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Muscatine & Iowa City RY...a very short lived line that became part of the Rock Island in the 'teens. Posted Monday, November 11, 2019 by BobF

A. A very short lived railroad line indeed - 7 1/2 months. I looked for an M & IC railroad in Edson's Railroad Names book, but nothing like it is listed. Wikipedia has an article about the Muscatine and Iowa City - see Link 1. It leased some Rock Island lines effective Jan 1, 1916 and ceased operation August 11, 1916, returning the lines to the Rock Island.  Link 1  Posted Tuesday, November 12, 2019 by JEM

 Q3690 Dates on Bottom of Handlan Lantern  I have a lantern probably pre-1930. Do you know which number on the bottom plate of the lantern represents the date? Not knowing how to get to the globe, the visible part is roughly 3 1/2 to 4 inches. From the base to the top of the lantern is about 12 inches. The visible part of the globe shows ICRR on the globe. It is believed that this was my grandfather's. My dad worked with ICRR from 1949-1983. His dad registered for the draft on June 5, 1917. His registration shows he was living at that time in Carbondale, Illinois and was a laborer for ICRR. Not sure when he got the lantern.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, November 7, 2019 by ER   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. They're just patent dates, not the date the Lantern was manufactured. To get the globe out just lift the top lid up. Posted Friday, November 8, 2019 by LC

A. This type of lantern is called a "short globe" because of the glass height. It's almost impossible to date an individual lantern like this. I can't say for sure because I'm not well enough versed in Handlan, but Shorty Globe lanterns were invented around the 1930s so it's very possible your grandpa got it and passed it on to your dad. You can Google the patent dates if you want, but most are for parts and pieces not the lantern itself. Patent dates at least give firm information about the earliest possible date a lantern could have been made.  Posted Friday, November 8, 2019 by JMS

A. As LC says to get the globe out, lift the lid - look for the little catch on the underside and squeeze that. Another trick is that when you replace the globe after taking it out, if the lid does not want to shut, try wiggling the glass and make sure the top goes into the inside of the lid when you are closing it. These can be tight fits.  Posted Friday, November 8, 2019 by JMS

 Q3688 B&O Marker Lamps  Recently I and a friend procured some B&O Handlan marker lamps with a four bracket, bracket. We bought these over the last year. The design is similar to the B&O Adlake markers with four cast iron brackets on the lamp. Thus, these markers do not turn in a bracket to adjust them. The whole lamp goes into a different bracket. I would like to hear from others who have seen and/or own these Handlan markers. Thanks.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Saturday, November 2, 2019 by Jeff   Post a Reply  Email a reply

 Q3681 Time Period of D&RGW Globe?  I have a CC tall globe D&RGWRR in a square panel. At the top in very small letters is M E G Co 2 (Macbeth Evens Glass Co). SAFETY FIRST is etched on the reverse. Any idea what time period this globe is from? TIA,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, October 14, 2019 by Ex Sou Ry   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. For a starting point MacBeth -Evans Glass was formed in 1899 Posted Monday, October 21, 2019 by COD

A. Looks like D&RG became D&RGW after WW1 about 1920 Posted Monday, October 21, 2019 by COD

A. OOps, I left out the more important quote: "The United States Railroad Administration took over the D&RG during World War I. In 1918 the D&RG fell into receivership after the bankruptcy of Western Pacific. The Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad (D&RGW or DRGW) was incorporated in 1920, and formally emerged as the new re-organization of the old Denver & Rio Grande Railroad on July 31, 1921." Posted Saturday, October 26, 2019 by JMS

A. Wikipedia says: "the D&RG went into receivership in July 1884 with court appointed receiver William S. Jackson in control. Eventual foreclosure and sale of the original Denver & Rio Grande Railway resulted within two years and the new Denver & Rio Grande Railroad took formal control of the property and holdings on July 14, 1886 with Jackson appointed as president." The full Wikipedia article is Link 1. I have found Wikipedia to be a tremendous resource for historical aspects. Thank goodness for the railfans who author those articles.  Link 1  Posted Saturday, October 26, 2019 by JMS

A. Okay, perhaps it's just a particular sentence in the Royal Gorge Route section that should be re-written, along with checking captions against the images. Posted Monday, December 9, 2019 by ShastaRoute

A. Sorry, but that wiki entry continually contradicts itself when read carefully. The title under one postcard gives D&RGW when the card reads an older name. The D&RG (RR) extends to the D&RGW which is then called the Rio Grande Western Railway (??) in the same sentence. It seems to jump all over with the name order in a confusing manner. The best I get from the logo is the now D&RGW (RY) dates to 1908 and lasts until D&RGW (RR) in 1921-on. So shouldn't the D&RG (RR) already be gone at 1908?? They need to go back and clarify all that with one single agreed timeline..too many cooks in yhat dining car! Posted Monday, December 9, 2019 by ShastaRoute

 Q3680 Station Lights?  Need help identifying what kind of lights these are.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, October 11, 2019 by Andy E   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. These are kerosene-fueled 'platform lamps' and were very common at stations before electricity was available, including at some very large union-station type operations. These lamps were also used as city streetlights and at commercial establishments such as hotels, etc. until electric lighting became common. There was a large market for these so most of the major lantern manufacturers made some version of this kind of lamp, and the lamps and parts such as globes turn up fairly frequently on the antiques market. Put 'platform lamp' in the search by word or phrase box to see a lot of our prior discussion of these. Q 3579 is an alternate way to get to the discussion string. And thank you for the excellent pic of them in use in a very typical way! Posted Friday, October 11, 2019 by RJMc

 Q3678 White Coating on a PRR Casey  I am cleaning a dirty PRR Casey lantern with WD-40 and steel wool. The 'green' paint easily gave way to what appears to be a very durable white coating. What is going on? I certainly was not expecting the white coating.  Posted Saturday, October 5, 2019 by SB   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. There is no way to know what that might be, without at least a picture. Posted Saturday, October 5, 2019 by RJMc

A. Here are some pictures. Link 1  Posted Monday, October 7, 2019 by SB

A. This has the look of metal which has been thru a rathre intense fire. The white would be the remains of the original zinc or tin coating which was oxidized (unevenly) during the heat of the fire and subsequent cooling exposed to air. Were there any other parts with the lantern -- such as a globe or brass parts such as the burner -- which either would not have survived a fire and/or would show other effects which might confirm having been in a fire?  Posted Monday, October 7, 2019 by RJMc

A. The original brass burner is in fine shape. The frame shows no sign of heat damage. While cleaning I noticed the white coating is missing up in the smoke dome and around the font all the way to the bottom where it joins with the lantern frame. I still believe the 'white' is a coating applied with the globe retainer and font installed, but with the top of the font opening closed to keep paint off the font. The original green paint is visible at the bottom of the font. I believe the black is/was generic black rattle can spray paint from the hardware store. Because the white coating is so hard and durable I was wondering if it was possible the lantern had been painted by the railroad to identify it as being reserved for some specific use. Posted Monday, October 7, 2019 by SB

A. It looks like white paint to me. Have you tried paint remover on it? WD40 and steel wool will remove some thin coat paint but old lead paint that's been on for year then paint remover is really the way to go. Once the paint is gone then you can clean it up with your WD and fine steel wool.  Posted Tuesday, October 8, 2019 by LC

A. I agree with LC - just a guess but maybe it is a primer coat of something. WD40 is not paint remover. We encountered a couple of lanterns like this years ago except with silver color - we decided it may have been an aircraft or special purpose stuff (like the "white" on yours?). It was impossible to get off, and trust me we tried everything. I do agree with the guess about the black being something a prior owner did, but is the "original green" paint really original? Lanterns left the factory in just metal and not painted; I suppose the RR could have painted this green upon receiving it. It sounds like a prior owner who took the lantern that may have had green on it, he removed most of the green, primed it with this white stuff and then spray painted it black. If this lantern was ours it probably would go into the paint remover dip bucket and see what happens.  Posted Tuesday, October 8, 2019 by JMS

A. While working on some 20th century silver (non-railroad) I decided to remove the blackening agent that had been applied to create an antique look which we might generally call fake-niello. I expect it was the manufacturer (a silversmithing firm) who put this on for marketing purposes. While the black came off easily, a white residue remained like a hard shell undercoat. Perhaps there was a product used commercially for a blackening agent that separated upon application and curing. Could this kind of substance have been applied here prior to the adding of the green paint? Might this have been available to a railroad's own shop forces? Posted Tuesday, December 3, 2019 by ShastaRoute

 Q3677 Green Finish on Lanterns  What is the green colored finish that I find on some lanterns and parts. Is it tin or zinc or something else?   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, September 27, 2019 by Lynn C.   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. That is usually some variety of lacquer, shellac, or varnish coating applied--by painting it on or even by dipping into it--by some collectors, often on lanterns that have lost their original protective finishes from weathering and/or 'cleaning'. It usually does not contain any zinc or other metallic component but acts a sealer and changes the surface appearance. It is nominally supposed to be clear but tends to weather to the brownish color seen in your pix especially in very thick layers of the coating. Whether to, and how to, 'preserve' lanterns is a HOTLY (pun somewhat intended) debated topic with highly partisan opinions across a very wide spectrum of possible approaches and desired results. Just put the word 'lacquer' in the search by word box to see many, many prior Q's on this subject, and look at the Archives article in the Link. Although some will argue that this (do or don't)rises to a moral integrity issue, my own opinion is this is very much an 'eye of the beholder' area. But I would note that lanterns in regualar RR service were not coated this way, significantly because it would have cost the RR's a lot of money they were not willing to spend on their thousands of lanterns which frequently got damaged and thrown away.  Link 1  Posted Saturday, September 28, 2019 by RJMc

A. I would absolutely agree with RJMc. We see this occasionally, and what we have seen is on frames someone has attempted to "clean"/"restore." I don't know about shellac or varnish, which really aren't for metal, but "lacquer" a/k/a "clear coat" is easy to use and comes in spray cans. I think your pictures are an example of someone not knowing how to work with lacquer. In the first place, it looks like too many coats, to the point it looks gunky. The off color (intensified by multiple layers) has yellowed. Clear coating a frame is one of those "you get what you pay for" situations. If you use cheap clearcoat, it will yellow. Buy ONLY a high end brand that guarantees it will never yellow and buy a matte (not shiny/high gloss) finish - think "artist supply store" instead of "hardware store" to find it. The matte will be "just shiny enough" when it dries. Clear coat on a lantern wants to be like make-up on a woman: there, but not at all obvious. It is CRITICAL to spray it EXTREMELY LIGHTLY. Two or maybe three very lightest coats, at most - not one thick one. We agree with RJMc about "eye of the beholder" but clearcoating helps protect from rust and prolong the life of a valued antique without harming anything (because it can be removed). The finished frame should look as close as can be replicated to how it looked when it left the factory, except it's got this essentially invisible coating that will keep the tin from rusting. As in everything else, it's a shame when it's messed up by someone "cheaping out" or not knowing how to apply the product.  Posted Sunday, September 29, 2019 by JMS

A. Just to be clear, are you both saying that the appearance of apple green colors in the cavities of the surface (exploded view) are not in fact remnants of removed paint but rather are just a photographic illusion? Posted Monday, September 30, 2019 by ShastaRoute

A. Even looking on a very large monitor I don't see anything that looks like paint. But if there was any green paint, NYC would have been one that used it; 'Perlman green' was big for a while on the New York Central circa the 1960's, much later than this lantern. Posted Monday, September 30, 2019 by RJMc

A. I'm the person who posted this question. The green is not paint. It is something that can only be removed with acid or abrasion. The second photo was after the lantern had been immersed in lye and stripped of paint. I have found the green color on burners, founts, even bails. I have seen traces of this on approximately 15% of the 100 lanterns that I have cleaned. I'm surprised that no one else has any experience with this. Posted Tuesday, October 1, 2019 by MLC

A.  The link is for a Canadian Government article about preservation of museum artifacts.  Link 1  Posted Tuesday, October 1, 2019 by KM

A.  There are several metals that are used as plating coatings that oxidize to a green or gray/green color. They are nickel, copper, and tin. Perhaps you are seeing an effort on the part of lantern manufacturers to stop the rust of steel lantern parts by plating them. Also, when something is nickel plated it is common to plate it with copper first. Sulfer fumes in the air may cause or accelerate the corrosion process so an older lantern that was around coal smoke may show more of the corroded color. Sometimes when an item is galvanized by hot dipping it into molten zinc they may copper plate it first. This is known as a copper strike and it is almost always used when an item is decorative plated and a shiny surface is desired. There are several reasons for this, it is easier to polish out small defects in the surface and get a very shiny appearance because the copper is softer. It also does not take away from the thickness of the remaining structural metal. The electrolytic nickel coating adheres better to copper than it does to steel. So your lanterns may have been plated, or they might have used a different alloy in the sheet steel which contains more of those metals. Zinc from galvanizing will dissolve with hydrochloric or muriatic acid. Nickel, copper or tin will not dissolve, but the tarnish may be removed and that brings up a new layer of activated metal which will tarnish and corrode quickly.  Posted Tuesday, October 1, 2019 by KM

A. I guessed at my answer from only seeing the photos. The weird color and finish looked to me just like lanterns we come across that have been clear coated (either by an amateur or with a brand that turns yellow with age). NO, I would not say this is remnants of removed paint, to me the photo looked like it is poor aging of a clearcoat that is still there on the metal -- especially since it seems to be all over, and can't be removed (I would ask an art specialty shop how to remove spray-on clear coat.) If in fact you have removed any kind of clear coating, then I have no clue what it is. An afterthought - where are you getting lye? It has been banned in the US for years, we have been unable to purchase it for years (not having any way to work through a government contract). Today's "lye" Is a joke and we have much better results with something else, but it sure is not the same performance as good old Red Devil was.  Posted Tuesday, October 8, 2019 by JMS

A. That 'good old Red Devil lye' is just a commercial grade of pure Sodium Hydroxide (chemical formula NaOH) flakes or powder. 100% Sodium Hydroxide powder, flakes, or very concentrated water solution (almost syrup) is commonly available very inexpensively by the pound as toilet bowl cleaner in most 'Big Box' home supply stores and in most supermarkets, at least in my neighborhood (Maryland)..WARNING: although it may be commonly available, it is still EXTREMELY corrosive to skin and aluminum metal, and must be handled with due respect or severe chemical burns can result.  Posted Wednesday, October 9, 2019 by RJMc

 Q3674 RR Signal ID?  Here are pictures of a railroad signal light that I have had collecting dust in my garage for decades. I'd appreciate any help in identifying it. Thanks.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, September 17, 2019 by Dale H   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. This is one form of 'dwarf' signal. If the 6 lenses in the round part, when lit inline two at a time from behind, would show 3 different colors it would be a 'color position light dwarf signal.' These were used by several different RR's, among them the B&O and related lines, among others. The rectangular box added on top, with the star-shaped cutouts, is unusual and probably served a special function. It is particularly unusual to have the one star-shaped indication pointing the opposite direction from the main signal. Someone may well recognize which RR used this kind of indication and maybe even where they used it.  Posted Tuesday, September 17, 2019 by RJMc

A. I would take it this is Union Switch & Signal? Posted Wednesday, September 18, 2019 by ShastaRoute

A. Some 1600 viewable c.1960 images held by Cornell (Link 1) that might yield a match somewhere in there. Link 1  Posted Friday, September 20, 2019 by ShastaRoute

 Q3671 Adlake Office Stand Lamp  I received a lamp from someone that I believe may be an Adlake product. I found a lamp in the Adlake 1907 catalog showing the exact same cast iron base. The 1907 lamp is listed as having a polished brass bowl. This lamp has a steel bowl or font. It may be nickel plated as there is no sign of rust or other degradation. Does anyone have a later Adlake catalog that may have this Office Stand Lamp listed in it? If not are there any thoughts as to whether it may be an Adlake item? I realize they may have bought it from someone else and then retailed it.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, September 6, 2019 by Drew   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. O.K. I have a partial answer to my own question. I found this font for sale on Ebay in a drop in form and clearly marked by Adams and Westlake. The font is identical to the one on my lamp. In making the stand lamp the manufacturer's mark would be obliterated by the base attachment to the font. The base is identical to that of the No. 163 Office Stand Lamp in the 1907 catalog. This is definitely a Adlake product. Question is can anyone tell me it's catalog number? Posted Sunday, February 16, 2020 by Drew Meyer

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